The HKS S-AFR is a simple fuel controller. In this article, we're installing one into an S14 240sx with SR20DET.

Stuff you'll need:

Assorted sockets

Wire cutter

Wire stripper

Zip ties

T-Tap electrical terminals

Male and Female insulated terminals

Pliers to close the T Taps

Before starting, select a decent mounting location and run the wiring to the ECCS area under the passenger side kick panel. Trim wires so they're about the right length.

First, disconnect battery power

Second, remove kick panel on passenger side, un bolt ECCS, remove harness from ECCS.

Third:

Now you're sittin here with a clump of wires in your hand and you're scratchin your head wondering what to do, do not fear!

Basically there are 3 wires in the ECCS that need to be spliced or cut.

The TPS sensor is tapped into.

The RPM signal wire is tapped into

The MAFS input wire is cut and run thru the SAFR

On the SR20DET the following diagram can be used to locate wires on the ECU harness.

The colors on the pinouts I added were the colors that will be tapped or added into the wire coming out of the pinout. The view you are seeing is looking at the side of the wiring harness with the retaining nut.

I recommend not using the supplied tap splices and going and buying some quality T-Taps as they're much more reliable. The ones you want to

use are the ones that will clamp around a wire then have a spot you can put a Male Insulated terminal into to make the connection.

Using these T-Taps, clip one around the Yellow/Red wire coming out of ECCS pinout 3 for the RPM Signal voltage. Coming off of the harness from the HKS unit, strip off 3/8 inch of insulation off the brown wire. Now crimp on a Male insulated connector and plug it into the T Tap you placed on the RPM Signal Wire.

Repeat this step for the white wire coming out of ECU pinout 20 and the orange wire.

The white wire coming out of ECU pinout 16 now needs to be cut. Leave yourself at least an inch and a half from the harness itself. Now that its cut. On the side thats still attached to the harness, strip 3/8inch of insulation and crimp on a male insulated disconnect. Crimp on a Female disconnect on the yellow wire coming off the HKS unit and connect it to the wire you just put the male disconnect on.

Now on the other side of the wire that you cut, crimp on a female disconnect and a male disconnect on the white wire coming off the HKS unit.

(make sure you do those last 2 in the right order in case you ever want to disconnect the HKS. This will allow you to put the wire you cut back together with out having to solder)

2 wires left....

Everyone has their own personal favorite ways to get power and ground. Personally since it was close, i t tapped into the same power and ground that my greddy profec B is using. Just make sure whatever you use for power is 12v IGNITION, not constant.

Now, grab your HKS head unit and plug in the harnesses from the HKS unit to the wiring you just ran. On the back there are 4 switches, make sure that 1 and 2 are up. 3 will be down if your BOV is atmospherically blown off. 4 will remain up for now. Plug the ECCS harness back in. Don't bolt everything back inplace incase of a bad connection. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key to the "run" position but do not fire the engine. the number 2 will flash on the display. Rotate the knob on the left a hair till it reads 4. This is the cylinder selection, if it's wrong your RPM display on the unit will be wrong. Make sure all knobs are pointing straight up. Fire the car. Let the car idle and dont turn on stereo, ac, heat, or any accessories till its at operating temp. once there, flick the number 4 switch to the down position.

VIOLA! ITS IN! ITS READY TO BE PLAYED WITH!

*Article and Photos Courtesy of Blair (JiinKz)